National Button Society Articles

Laurel Burch: Artist and Button Designer

By Nancy Fink
Published: December 5, 2011
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Laurel Burch's trademark became her signature on all branded products
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All jewelry, like this pair of earrings from the early 1990s, were labeled
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The first set of Laurel Burch buttons included six cat faces (five are shown here)
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and six cat bodies (four shown here)
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All buttons contained the trademark signature and "made by Dill" the manufacturer
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The Jungle Songs series contains twelve animals. Missing from this photo are the lion, turtle, and tiger
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One of the last groups to be released in 2007 were the florals with the butterfly
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Fabric made by Clothworks Textiles was used by collectors to make fabric buttons

Like Martha Stewart and Yves St. Laurent, Laurel Burch became an artist and a brand. In fact, it was her ability to transfer her art to various media like coffee mugs, clothing, tote bags, prints, fabric, note cards,  and buttons that made her rich and famous.  Her beginnings were not always so comfortable. Laurel was a Southern California child who was frequently hospitalized because of a rare congenital bone disease, osteopetrosis. Her world of imagination allowed her to escape the reality of frequent hospitalizations, and she loved to draw.

At the age of 19, Laurel was married, had two children, and moved to San Francisco.  After her divorce she had to support her children by designing jewelry from found metal scraps banged into form on an old skillet. In the Summer of Love and later, her designs were very popular, and she incorporated her whimsical drawings into her design. Completely self-taught, Laurel saw her art as a way to connect with people. In 1971 Laurel traveled to China to make contact with a company that manufactured her jewelry, and the Laurel Burch brand began.

In October, 2004, the German company, Dill, offered the first set of Laurel Burch buttons to the public.  A set of twelve cats--six seated full-bodied cats with curled tails and six cat faces—were included. All are sew-thrus and matched her drawings that also been offered for sale. Each cat has a different colorful design. 

Also in October, 2004, a set of twelve different animals called “Jungle Songs” was offered by Dill. Like the cat buttons in the first set, the animals were enamels on brass. Each button is identified by the Laurel Burch signature that is also found on the reverse of her jewelry and is her trademark. In addition, each button is marked “made by Dill.”

In October, 2007, soon after her death on September 23, 2007, Dill offered the last sets of Laurel Burch buttons—eleven colorful fantasy florals and a butterfly, the twelfth button of the set, as well as six other cats—two thin cats with kittens called stacked cats, two fat cats with kittens called parent and child, and two more full-bodied cats. After contacting the American representative for Dill, I was told that there are plans for releasing a “best of” set in the future. The exact date has not been determined. 

Collectors have used the Laurel Burch cat fabrics of faces to make a set of fabric buttons. These were made from the Laurel Burch fabric by Clothworks Textiles and would be considered studio buttons. My set is not signed or dated, so I do not know who created them. Many of the fabrics are available online but most are out of print, especially the leopard cat faces.

Laurel Burch used her art of provide financially for her family and to communicate with others. The naïve fantasy and colorful warmth of her drawings combined with her business acumen in spite of a debilitating disease that eventually took her life make the story of Laurel Burch inspirational. The three sets of buttons guarantee her interest to button collectors.

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